Pondicherry front. and me with an elephant!
Friday 22 February 2008
Monday 18 February 2008
Hello all…Hollys given you the general jist so I’ll just tell you about my morning
I woke up this morning with a mild case of back pain. Im not sure why exactly. But I think it was probably due to the amount of jhinga prawn masalas I’ve been eating and the amount of times I’ve put my feet up to read my book in the last week. Anyway. I decided I’d go and have an ‘Ayurvedic Massage’ I didn’t really know what this was to be honest, but I figured a bit of a back massage would do me a world of good.
I was ushered into a room and inside was greeted by a moustached bloke called Raaj who was about 4 foot 3. I said hello…he shook his head from side to side and then produced a piece of translucent material that would best be described as something the length of 4 sheets of toilet paper with a shoe lace across the top. ‘You put this on’ he said then left the room. At this stage alarm bells started going off in my head. Either he was having a good old laugh at my expense or he thought I was Borat and that id lost my thong.
Anyway It took me about 10 minutes to figure out how on earth to secure the cloth effectively enough to cover my shame. And by the time I said I was ready for him to come in I had serious doubts as to whether I was wearing it in the correct manner…but it seemed to just about work.
It turns out an Aruyvedic Massage is an all over body massage which takes about an hour and involves all sorts hot scented oils etc. The first 15 minutes effectively involves ritually battering your skull in different places and pulling your hair until you get tears in your eyes and you have a splitting headache. The second 15 minutes involves lying on your back while Raaj massages the insides of your upper legs and your stomach. Then the last half hour seems to chill out a bit although he did untie the thong when I was face down to complete the ‘full body experience’…cheeky. To be honest there were moments when I could barely contain my amusement as I was stroked then battered and proded and Raaj asked ‘massage power okay?’…but I think id do it again.
Back still hurts though…maybe I’ll have Masala Fish instead tonight.
I woke up this morning with a mild case of back pain. Im not sure why exactly. But I think it was probably due to the amount of jhinga prawn masalas I’ve been eating and the amount of times I’ve put my feet up to read my book in the last week. Anyway. I decided I’d go and have an ‘Ayurvedic Massage’ I didn’t really know what this was to be honest, but I figured a bit of a back massage would do me a world of good.
I was ushered into a room and inside was greeted by a moustached bloke called Raaj who was about 4 foot 3. I said hello…he shook his head from side to side and then produced a piece of translucent material that would best be described as something the length of 4 sheets of toilet paper with a shoe lace across the top. ‘You put this on’ he said then left the room. At this stage alarm bells started going off in my head. Either he was having a good old laugh at my expense or he thought I was Borat and that id lost my thong.
Anyway It took me about 10 minutes to figure out how on earth to secure the cloth effectively enough to cover my shame. And by the time I said I was ready for him to come in I had serious doubts as to whether I was wearing it in the correct manner…but it seemed to just about work.
It turns out an Aruyvedic Massage is an all over body massage which takes about an hour and involves all sorts hot scented oils etc. The first 15 minutes effectively involves ritually battering your skull in different places and pulling your hair until you get tears in your eyes and you have a splitting headache. The second 15 minutes involves lying on your back while Raaj massages the insides of your upper legs and your stomach. Then the last half hour seems to chill out a bit although he did untie the thong when I was face down to complete the ‘full body experience’…cheeky. To be honest there were moments when I could barely contain my amusement as I was stroked then battered and proded and Raaj asked ‘massage power okay?’…but I think id do it again.
Back still hurts though…maybe I’ll have Masala Fish instead tonight.
Pondicherry
Anyone that's read the Life of Pi will have heard of Pondicherry. We're here! We got the bus yesterday, from 'Mam' (as I now call it, to prevent previously mentioned mispronunciations). It was another nail biting journey with me clinging to my bags, the seat, closing my eyes and holding my breath for two hours as the driver religiously waited for a blind corner before over-taking the speeding bike in front of him. Near misses counted: 45.
Sam, meanwhile, oblivious to the danger and my silent fear - is making friends all over the place. This time with a nice chap called Raj. I'm sure Sam will go into more detail as they are now mates. I will take this moment to note the fact that Alice was right when she warned me: Nobody talks to the girl. Every question, answer or comment that is passed is directed towards Sam. I don't actually mind that much, they're not being rude, that's just the way it is. On the other hand, I get looked at a lot.
We were also warned (this time by Zach) that visiting India would give us a taste of what it might be like to be Brad and Ange. No, we're not suddenly super-attractive, mind-blowingly rich actors - but for some reason everyone wants to get there photo taken with us. Or at least stop and shake our hands. The photo taking is very odd indeed. On our last day in 'Mam' we got up very early to go to the Shore Temple and visit the carvings before it got too hot and the tourist crowds arrived. We got there at 7.30am, at the same time as a large school party. The children must have been between 7 and 9, and there were about 60 of them all in line waiting to get it. As we walked passed them up to the ticket booth they all gawped at us. Then there was a tentative 'hello, how are you?' followed by about 20 little 'how are you?'s. After a few 'we're fine, how are you?'s, they were taken on to the shore temple by their teacher. We followed about 10 mins later after taking some photographs from a distance. Sam was still about 200 meters away when I was suddenly surrounded by about 20 little boys, all jumping up and down and asking me my name and wanting to shake my hand. Then another 10 joined. By which time I was a little overwhelmed. I felt under pressure to perform or at least do something interesting. So I got my camera out. Oh God, they went NUTS. Screaming, shouting, pushing in front of one another to get in my photograph. I was getting some disapproving looks from their teacher so I tried to play down the whole situation but it was too late. Sam came along and taught them 'High 5's', which needless to say went down a storm. I got some great photos, but this silly ancient computer won't let me add them now. I will later.
Later as we walked along on our own an Indian family, obviously on a family day trip from another part of the country with Granny, Aunty, Dad, Mum and 3 kids, tried to take a surreptitious family photograph with us as the back drop... not the amazing, ancient, beautiful carvings.. but us! And what is more they tried to do it with out us noticing! I moved away, feeling a little uncomfortable. There was much whispered pushing and next thing I knew the Dad had run over and put the baby next to me and was taking photographs. It's happened about 5 times.
Pondi is very pretty. It was French until the '50s and the area we are staying in could be France, apart from the rickshaws. We even had Fish Provancal last night. We're staying in a nice little place and have met some old travel casualties. WAY too much weed and sunshine has made them go soft in the head. Bernard is the particular old dude we are trying to avoid at the moment.
Tomorrow we're going to the 'international community' of Auroville. A project in 'human unity' which now has over 1700 residents. HIPPIES. Interesting, but I don't think we'll be staying long. Don't worry.
Over to Sam. Photos to follow.
Sam, meanwhile, oblivious to the danger and my silent fear - is making friends all over the place. This time with a nice chap called Raj. I'm sure Sam will go into more detail as they are now mates. I will take this moment to note the fact that Alice was right when she warned me: Nobody talks to the girl. Every question, answer or comment that is passed is directed towards Sam. I don't actually mind that much, they're not being rude, that's just the way it is. On the other hand, I get looked at a lot.
We were also warned (this time by Zach) that visiting India would give us a taste of what it might be like to be Brad and Ange. No, we're not suddenly super-attractive, mind-blowingly rich actors - but for some reason everyone wants to get there photo taken with us. Or at least stop and shake our hands. The photo taking is very odd indeed. On our last day in 'Mam' we got up very early to go to the Shore Temple and visit the carvings before it got too hot and the tourist crowds arrived. We got there at 7.30am, at the same time as a large school party. The children must have been between 7 and 9, and there were about 60 of them all in line waiting to get it. As we walked passed them up to the ticket booth they all gawped at us. Then there was a tentative 'hello, how are you?' followed by about 20 little 'how are you?'s. After a few 'we're fine, how are you?'s, they were taken on to the shore temple by their teacher. We followed about 10 mins later after taking some photographs from a distance. Sam was still about 200 meters away when I was suddenly surrounded by about 20 little boys, all jumping up and down and asking me my name and wanting to shake my hand. Then another 10 joined. By which time I was a little overwhelmed. I felt under pressure to perform or at least do something interesting. So I got my camera out. Oh God, they went NUTS. Screaming, shouting, pushing in front of one another to get in my photograph. I was getting some disapproving looks from their teacher so I tried to play down the whole situation but it was too late. Sam came along and taught them 'High 5's', which needless to say went down a storm. I got some great photos, but this silly ancient computer won't let me add them now. I will later.
Later as we walked along on our own an Indian family, obviously on a family day trip from another part of the country with Granny, Aunty, Dad, Mum and 3 kids, tried to take a surreptitious family photograph with us as the back drop... not the amazing, ancient, beautiful carvings.. but us! And what is more they tried to do it with out us noticing! I moved away, feeling a little uncomfortable. There was much whispered pushing and next thing I knew the Dad had run over and put the baby next to me and was taking photographs. It's happened about 5 times.
Pondi is very pretty. It was French until the '50s and the area we are staying in could be France, apart from the rickshaws. We even had Fish Provancal last night. We're staying in a nice little place and have met some old travel casualties. WAY too much weed and sunshine has made them go soft in the head. Bernard is the particular old dude we are trying to avoid at the moment.
Tomorrow we're going to the 'international community' of Auroville. A project in 'human unity' which now has over 1700 residents. HIPPIES. Interesting, but I don't think we'll be staying long. Don't worry.
Over to Sam. Photos to follow.
Friday 15 February 2008
We're here!
Hello all!
I say 'all'...more accurately i mean hello Mums. As the title of the blog suggests we are infact here in India, alive AND well (for the time being anyway, touch sandalwood) We arrived in Chennai in the early hours of tuesday morning and, well what can i say...you read about it for a year, imagine it for a year...but nothing can prepare you for the reality of it. Our first few hours in Chennai were pretty intense really. The cab ride to our hostel introduced us to the 'musky' aromas of the city(for musky read vile) and its traffic chaos. Its heart in mouth stuff driving in this country. All normal rules seem to fly out the window. people overtaking eachother when and wherever, dodging cows, (mum look away now) driving down the wrong side of dual carriage ways in between oncoming traffic. But its really rather fun once you resign yourself to it. Arriving at our hostel we had to step over street children sleeping on bags of rubbish...again nothing can prepare you for that sight. We got in and put our heads down for the night in a lovely (if a bit crumbling) room in the market district of the city. We were woken up at 5.30am by the sound of hundreds of crows and the morning call to prayer from a mosque about 50 yards away. It felt like we were on another planet, haunting but exciting.
Anyway we spent only a day in Chennai. I spent most of the time trying to get to grips with a couple of fears 1) amoebic dysentry 2) bed bugs 3) eating curry for breakfast with your hands and 4) amoebic dysentry...it doesnt sound much fun.
So we've made a sharp exit 50 km down the coast (again cow dodging etc) to an amazing stone carving village by the sea called Mamallapuram. Its great here. Quite touristy but a much more gentle entry into India. Most of the pictures at the top were taken here apart from the one of us in the back of an auto rickshaw wich is in Chennai. We ate the most amazing lobster and the biggest prawns i've ever seen in my life on the beach last night. again see pic of Holly holding the prawn above...we're here for another day then down the coast to Pondicherry.
Its taken a few days to get used to the Indian way...but i think its great. there is no real sense of personal space, people stare at you, ask you ooads of questions. Once you get used to it its really refreshing. If you want to talk you talk, if you want to stare you stare, if you want to sit down you sit down right next to someone...there's no polite reserve really.
ANYWAY...im blathering...heres Holly...
Sam's put it excellently so I'll keep it brief...
Smells: from the puke-makingly terrible to the yummiest amazing.
Sunsets: beath-taking
Prawns: Massive
Eating with hands: interesting
Pronounciation of Mamallapuram: impossible
Traffic laws: redundant
Seeing a three month old baby balanced in the arms of the 2nd passenger on a motorbike: terrifying
Street Children sleepling on the pavement: heartbreaking
Time running out on the internet. One last thing to report:
Bridger/sarong update: Not one yet, but it's only a matter of time. He bought insense yesterday.
peace and love, xx
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